Highlights vs. Lowlights

Highlights are meant to compliment your hairstyle, and face.  They can be any tone or shade you desire; they are lighter than you original hair color. Generally they are placed at the crown and around your face for optimum effect. The thicker the highlights (thick highlights are also known as chunky highlights), the less natural they look. The thinner the better. Want to mix them beautifully? Go for contrast, with highlights that are even, thin and natural looking.

hair highlights
Image by Torley via Flickr

For a general idea of shades to use, look at the following:

  • If you have dark hair, go no more than three shades lighter than your natural color.
  • If you have black hair, red highlights enhance the contrast and cut of your hairstyle; blonde or caramel highlights blend well, so they are the most popular highlights; purple highlights soften dark hair color and add subtlety, highlighting your bangs. Feeling quirky and fun, by trying multicolor highlights.
  • If you have brown hair, it has shades of red to go through first. If done incorrectly, it will turn brassy. Some shades of platinum blonde are fine on brown hair; do not use platinum blonde on dark brown hair, or it will turn your hair green.
  • For light brown hair, try a color two shades lighter than your original hair color; copper highlights look great; try copper and gold highlights for a gorgeous look.

Lowlights are meant to add definition and depth to your hairstyle. Adding lowlights the third time you get your hair highlighted, will blend your highlights with your natural color which looks fabulous and prevents salon trips every six weeks to cover dark roots. Tones of blended copper and gold are often the best lowlights to use. As always, consult your stylist.

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.

Hair Glossing: Let Your Stylist Make You Shine

You loved you color when you left the salon. Now it’s three weeks later and your hair is looking a bit worn out. Pollution, harsh shampoos, styling products and high heat appliances can make your hair look dull and lifeless. Summer sun can fade your color. In the winter, dry heat indoors can sap the moisture out of your hair and the cold outside can make it brittle. Even natural virgin hair can feel the effects of the environment, harsh chemicals, styling products and tools. Your stylist can give your hair a boost with hair glossing. Hair glossing is a simple and quick service that can bring your hair back to life and add sparkling shine

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Source: pexels.com

Your hair is made up of layers. The inner most layer, the cortex, is where color molecules reside. The cuticle of your hair is its outermost layer and is made up of small overlapping scales. When your stylist applies hair color, chemicals in the hair color open up your hair’s cuticle and replace the natural color molecules in your hair with its own color molecules.

Hair color comes in four different strengths. Permanent hair color takes out and replaces almost all of your natural hair color. Permanent color stays in your hair until it is cut, although permanent color will fade in time. Semi-permanent color does not enter the cortex and affect your natural color molecules, but resides in the cuticle layer between hair’s natural scale structures. Demi-permanent color enters your hair’s cortex but does not replace as much of your natural color as permanent. Semi-permanent and demi-permanent colors are excellent choices for blending gray or if you want to enhance your natural color, but it will fade in about six weeks. Temporary hair color only covers the outer layer of your hair and will wash out with your first shampoo. If you have naturally dark hair or have had color applied before and you want to go lighter, your stylist will apply a bleach product to remove the color first. Then your stylist will either apply a semi, demi or permanent color to the pre-lightened hair to achieve the desired results.

Hair glossing not only gives your hair shine but helps to make it more manageable. When your hair becomes dull, what has happened is that your cuticle layer has opened slightly and is losing some of the color molecules that made your hair color rich and deep when you first received your color service. Hair gloss comes in clear or can have a slight tint to it to enhance your fading color. Glossing products can replace the missing color molecules in your hair and helps to smooth the cuticle layer. When your hair’s outer cuticle layer is smooth, your hair is shiny and looks healthy. By replacing the missing color molecules, your hair is once again vibrant and full of life.

A hair glossing service starts with your stylist evaluating your hair’s condition. Next the gloss is applied to dry hair and allowed to process. Your stylist then washes and conditions your hair and styles it. Then you’re good to go. A glossing service is quick and easy and can refresh and restore your hair’s shine and lusture

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.

Perms Came a Long Way, Baby!

Women have come a long way from the late 1800’s, when they began wearing perms. Back then, Marcel Grateau specially designed tongs heated by gas or alcohol flame to create a wavy look.  Ironically, the method used back then is still in existence today – just greatly modified.

Hair wound ready for permanent-waving, with (o...
Image via Wikipedia

With Mr. Grateau’s design,  the person perming their hair would comb the hair towards the operator, slowly moving the comb with the hand to keep tension while applying the tongs to the hair pulling down the lock to the point. The tongs produced a two dimensional wave. The process of using high temperature degraded the hair. By 1905, Charles Nessler, devised an alternate method using cow urine and water. This method was called the spiral heat method and was designed for long hair. By 1909, Mr. Nessler’s machine was used in London to produce waves on ladies’ long tresses. By 1917, Isidoro Calvete design the first permanent-wave heater. It resembled something from outer space (think colander with wires coming out of the top of the colander). In 1924, Josef Mayer designed a curler that made the ends of the curls pointy. In 1930, J. Bari-Woollss designed a reduction method. A heatless system was introduced a the Midwest Beauty Show in 1931, this system was used frequently in salons, where it was left on the client overnight and removed the next day. It was called the overnight wave. Both Mr. Mayer and Mr. Bari-Woollss designs were modified over time and this modified unit is used in salons today.

As technology and chemicals developed, the perming process improved dramatically to include the cold wave in 1938 using rods and reduction lotion and acid perms in 1970. Additional modern perms were introduced throughout the 1970’s – exothermic, digital perms, and permanent relaxer that straightens the hair.

Because of these inventions and improved technology and chemicals, today’s women may safely perm their hair.

  • Acid perms create conditioned, flexible curls; they are best for fine, sensitive, fragile, damaged, or tinted hair.
  • Alkaline perms create strong, firm curls; they are best for normal and resistant hair.
  • Exothermic perms create bouncy, strong curls.
  • Body perms are soft, loose perms that create volume with a little wave vs. curls.
  • Root perms lift and add volume the root area; they are best for short hair.
  • Pain curl perms create soft, natural waves, and curls.
  • Stack perms create curl and volume to one-length cuts; they are used on the middle and ends.
  • Spiral perms create spiral curls. Hair is rolled vertically vs. horizontally.
  • Spot perms support the area they are applied to; they are best used where a little lift is needed such as the crown, fringe, or side around face.
  • Weave perms curl sections of the hair and leave the rest straight; they are best for bangs, and the face.
Regardless of the type of perm that’s right for your hair, you don’t have to know a lot about perms, or how they came about, to walk out with a great look. Consulting your stylist is important. They should be the kind of professional that’s willing to listen, advise you and make recommendations. If you get the sense that they only have one option in their repertoire, get a second opinion. As with your health, your hair needs the services of a pro.

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.


Save Time in the Morning with Style and Go

Mornings are hectic, that’s just a fact. You rush to get ready in the morning and to look your best. Once in a while time is not on your side. Why not make an early appointment and let your stylist make your day less rushed? Your stylist offers more than just cuts and color. She can also help you look your best before an important meeting, presentation or date.

Source: pexels.com

Remember the days when your grandmother went to the salon every week and got a wash and set? Why not take a cue from her and make an appointment for yourself? Grandma did know best. Now your stylist can offer you streamline services that will save you time and make you look great. Why spend hours doing what your stylist can do in half the time? A style and go service can include a shampoo and conditioning treatment and styling or you can just pop in for a styling service.

Do you need an updo for an important occasion? How about a sleek look? Maybe you just need some ideas on how to style your hair to look your absolute best. Your stylist is here to help you. She can tailor your hairstyle to flatter your face and hair texture. Not only can she find a style to suit your needs, she has the best quality products to bring out the shine and maintain your look. Nothing beats professional product’s performance for manageability and hold.

So do yourself a favor and make time work for you. Don’t rush around in the morning trying to feed the kids, pack lunches and get yourself ready, call us today and set an appointment for a style and go. You’ll walk out the door polished and refreshed, ready to face your day.

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.

What’s that hair color smell?!?

Think that “Listerine” smell means your hair color is working? Nope – it means bad things are going into your hair and scalp. You go “green” and healthy with everything else – why not your hair color? Isn’t your wellbeing worth it?

Disadvantages of Low Cost Hair Color Treatments: Paying less for hair color lines for treatment of hair does not mean getting a quality product. There is a difference between higher priced hair products and low cost hair products.

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Image by you-did via Flickr

Disadvantages of Low Cost Products: Before purchasing products that are inexpensive, the ingredients label should be read Lower cost products contain ingredients that are harmful for the body.

Ingredients to Avoid

Recommended color lines: Higher priced brands are usually higher quality products that can contain little or none of the ingredients listed above.  But not always. That strong ammonia smell you may have gotten used to when you color your hair in a salon – that’s a telltale sign? The most highly recommended brand is Farouk Chi Hair Color, available only in color processes administered by your stylist.

Chi Hair Color is recommended because the color does not fade quickly therefore, the effect last for a long period of time. Chi Shine Hair Color also adds a shine to completely cover all of the gray hair. Chi is used at a number of professional salons because, while it costs a little more,  it contains both silk protein as well as milk protein, and Farouk Chi Hair color does not contain ammonia that can damage hair.

As always, consult your stylist.

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.
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Haircare Beneath The Veil: Beauty Is Important Worldwide

Istanbul - Muslim women and a child on the boa...
Image via Wikipedia

Beauty is important to women around the world, even to women who some people assume it wouldn’t be. So is personal health.

Muslim women want to look just as good as any other demographic out there, but often they must settle for having their hair cut at home or a friend’s house. Most salons do not have the appropriate accommodations to keep Muslim women comfortable while they are getting their hair done.

Under the hijab, Muslim women have beautiful hair and they want to keep it taken care of. Their hair can get dry or tangled after a couple of months and they need to make sure their hair stays healthy — no matter who sees it.

Most salons service both men and women, deterring the vast majority of Muslim women who cannot let a man see their head uncovered. There are salons out there who do not cater to Muslim women at all, because there are special considerations needed to ensure that they are comfortable and the appropriate traditions are observed. Even the chance that a man may see her uncovered head through the window can cause the devout Muslim woman quite a bit of discomfort.

There are salons out there that do have back rooms that cater to Muslim women who would like to get their hair done, but most of them provide only a dank and unprofessional backroom. In some cases the women have to stand up because there are no actual salon chairs in the back and feel like they are inconveniencing the hairstylist. Because of these factors, it is no surprise that most Muslim women just get their hair done at home. But every woman likes to look beautiful, no matter their background, and having to have your hair cut at home and only at home often doesn’t make you look your best. Hair health may go unconsidered, also, because the right conditioners may not be available to non-hairstylists.

We accommodate traditional Muslim women by offering a special back room for our clients who are worried about their privacy and want their hair styled in a comfortable environment. Call to make an appointment beforehand and we can find a good time to have your hair styled in private. It doesn’t matter where you come from or who you are: Every woman needs to feel beautiful and have wonderfully healthy hair.

Locking Hair Extensions

Long cascading hair has been a fantasy for people who have a permanent bob cut or hair that needs continuous trimming as it doesn’t grow thick beyond the shoulder level.  The voluptuous appeal that long flowing hair could give is just a two hour sitting away! Locking hair extensions (sometimes referred to by brand names like Euro locs or the hair locs system) is a unique process that adds an extension to your hair, not with a synthetic replica of your hair texture but with original human hair that is available  in umpteen colors and lengths. This hair extension system is extremely popular owing to the fact that the hair used is natural and real and doesn’t show signs of wearing off at all when maintained properly. The procedure is a safe and healthy system of extending your hair.

Hair Extension Pics3
Source: glamour.com

Primarily, the hair strands that are attachments used to lengthen your hair can also be used to enhance volume for people who have scanty hair. The process involves parting your hair into equal and organized portions and clipping it, making the parting line visible. The stylist will decide how many extensions you will need to give your hair the length or the right blend between your hair and the extended hair. There is no clipping, or bonding process involved – unlike the other hair extension systems available in most salons. The human hair extensions are specially locked into your hairline growth by a method that leaves it absolutely undetectable. This patented process has to be handled by a certified stylist.

With proper care, the extensions may last 6 months, before you need to visit the stylist again just to re-fix any extensions that have moved with your natural hair growth. After undergoing the hair extension system, you could shampoo it, condition it, perm it or even straighten it like you would with your natural hair. A professional will charge you a fee for the whole session besides the price for the number of extensions you want affixed in this manner.

Locking extensions  are not just a beautiful way of extending your hair by giving it the most original and natural look, but also safe while there is no harmful chemical, glue or heat involved in the process. Consult your stylist for the best results for your hair type.

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.

Japanese Hair Straightening with IStraight

Beautiful natural healthy hair
Image via Wikipedia


Born with natural curls and waves, your hair probably has been envied by many. But are you wondering how you could get the typical celebrity look with straight shiny and more importantly, manageable hair? Technology has hosted a variety of solutions for people with frizzy hair, who’ve always found it quite a task, unknotting the curls that have a natural tendency to become so when they are either wet or dry.

Some of the anti frizz creams could give you a temporary solution but cause great damage to your hair in the long run. Straightening unmanageable hair permanently is not just a solution for people who’ve had trying times with their kinky entanglements but if done the right way could be an incomparable healthy rejuvenator for your hair. Amongst the many hair straightening systems, the istraight system, broached by the Japanese has been effective with different textures of hair. The procedure and chemicals involved in the istraight system is far better than any other, owing to a number of reasons.

Straight but nourished hair is the goal of the  istraight system, when compared to just straightened hair that tends to become brittle and damaged eventually.

The disulphide bonds, that every person is born with determines whether they have curly, wavy or straight hair. This Japanese system is extremely gentle and works on numbing these natural bonds with natural hair nourishing chemicals and the flat iron that changes the very shape of the hair cuticle by pressing it down.

A silicon based straightening system along with a sodium hydroxide relaxing agent could be a dangerous combination for any type of hair. Watch out for this because most salons that promise to straighten hair at a cheap price adopt this process. In contrast, the istraight system uses ceramide as a major straightening ingredient which ensures the right moisture level in each hair strand. This is what ultimately keeps straightened hair from getting damaged.

With professionals who are trained at the istraight system, you could look forward to an entirely new and brilliant personality in just 3 to 4 hours. The shine and gloss on your hair, whether it is short or long is sure to make heads turn as you yourself bask in the smooth and silky hair feel you’ve always yearned for.

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.
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Kiva – Help a Hair Stylist Get on Her Feet!

I want to talk to you a moment about Kiva. Kiva is a web site that lets you provide micro-loans to the poor with only $25. The loans are given to entrepreneurs and are facilitated through Kiva’s partnership with local micro-lending organziations. The micro-lending organization collects interest and you collect the principle on the loan. When your money is paid back, you can re-lend it. My family has a number of these loans in play and have been paid back many times and re-loaned again to new entrepreneurs.

Example: Kossi, a man in Lome, Togo, Africa needs $1200 for a new taxi, so he can sustain his family. You loan $25, and over the next week or so many Kiva lenders also put in $25. The total is reached very quickly, and the microlending organization is funded to provide and administer the loan. over the next 26months, the borrower pays it back, you receive the $25 back, and you can either withdraw it or re-lend. You can fund the loan with your paypal account, credit card, or other means.

Another Example: Surayo, a woman in Tajikistan, makes commercial women’s wear as a contractor out of her home. Her business has been growing, and she needs a loan of $700 to buy special material to increase her line. She plans to eventually open her own company producing and selling clothing. You loan her $25. I loan her $25. And lots of other people are loaning her $25. These are bundled into one microloan, which she gets as a lump sum, makes the investment, expands her business, and is able, with this kind of help, to break out of poverty.

We’ve been lending through Kiva for a few years. It works, it’s decent and straightforward, and if you’re worried about your money, you can lend with confidence even during an economic downturn. The default rates are slim – most lenders repay. At most, you risk $25 at a time (though you may want to fund several small entrepreneurs), and you can make a dent in poverty by helping people get a handhold on something real – their work. Visit www.kiva.org and you’ll see what I mean.


Choosing The Most Appropriate Hair Extension Service

The 5 most common hair extension services today are  Glue In, Track Hair Extensions, Locking Hair Extensions, Hot Fusion and Cold Fusion. Each has advantages and disadvantages. Here are some guidelines to help you make your choice wisely.

Glue In Hair Extension Service/ Track Hair Extensions

This is a temporary hair extension solution which means for the amount of time you spend in the salon, which can be 4-hours or more for partial, upwards of 5-hours for full, and the money, the investment for a short term look should be worth the effort. You should also be ready to have the hair extensions removed within a reasonable amount of time – like a couple of months. Of course, this can depend on the expertise of your hairdresser, but it can also depends strongly on how you care for the hair in the meantime. Some people report their glue-in extensions only lasted a week, others say they change their glue-in extensions every 6 months. The average time that glue-in extensions last is about 2-3 months, with proper care.

Hair Extension Pics2
Source: milashaircuts.com

You can expect to pay anywhere from $220 (partial) to $390 (full) and up for these type of hair extensions. The price will vary depending on the type of hair used (e.g. human hair vs. synthetic) and length of the hair. You must also consider the cost involved in removing the hair extensions. Attempting to remove glue in hair extensions on your own is not advisable because you could inadvertently pull out your own hair,, causing a bald spot.

The benefits of this type of hair extensions are lower cost, adds volume to your hair, and can create a whole new look for you. On the downside, glue in extensions can damage your hair and scalp because glue can sometimes cause split ends or even burn your hair.

Track hair extensions involves applying up to 50 hair strands to specific areas in your scalp by using a chemical substance to make it stick. You should consider the maintenance cost that comes after. For every track you had placed in your hair, you can expect to pay up to $60 for each as part of the cost for upkeep. Upkeep should be done every 6 weeks minimum.

Locking Hair Extensions

This is a great choice if you have fragile and thinning hair. This is because it uses natural human hair only and is attached without the use of abrasive chemicals or substances like glue. In fact, you can keep your lock-in hair extensions for many months without having to sit through lengthy extension sessions. The initial service might take 4.5hrs (partial) to 5.5 hours (full). The times are not exact.

The cost for this kind of hair extension service can start at $700 (partial) to $1000 (full), but can get up to $2500 for some stylists. The reason this type is more expensive is the human hair factor as compared to synthetic hair which is much cheaper.

The main advantage of this kind of hair extension is the fact that you can usually remove them to use again when you please, as long as they are not damaged. Naturally, you would have to have this done by a professional to ensure that they can be used more than once. With regular maintenance of 2 to 4 months, the extensions can last up to 4 years with proper care. Another advantage is that the locking tubes can be adjusted to compensate for the growth of the natural hair.

Hot Fusion Hair Extensions

This type of hair extension service uses hot glue to attach the extensions. Using hot glue can burn your scalp, if you attempt it at home,  so you need to make sure to visit a professional salon to have this done for you. It would cost you about $700 (partial) to $1400 (full) , but this amount varies depending on the length of the hair extensions and how many you want. You will spend at least 5-hours [partial) or 6-hours (full)  in the salon for this service.

The advantage of this type of hair extension service is the 4 month period where you can enjoy beautiful, longer, and thicker hair. Because of the application method, the hair can sometimes seem a little stiffer and less natural. The method is generally not damaging to the natural hair. With the fusion method, it is difficult to make out the extensions from the natural hair, but one of the disadvantages of this  method is that sometimes glue material may be visible when pulling the hair back.

Cold Fusion Hair Extensions

The cousin to hot fusion, cold fusion is a comparatively new technology and is very popular, because it is gentler on the natural hair, since it uses polymer to attach the extensions. Since this method doesn’t use heat, it is the preferred method for thin or fine hair. Furthermore, the extensions can stay on for up to 6 months.

With this type of hair extension service, you will be able to fool a lot of people, because the results are amazingly natural and beautiful. This is also the reason why this type of extension is much more expensive.

The range of a cold fusion hair extension service can start at $700 (partial) to $1400 (full), but this can balloon to $4000, depending on who you approach for the service, and the length of the extensions. As with hot fusion, you will spend at least 5-hours [partial) or 6-hours (full)  in the salon for this service.

Scalp Braiding Hair Extensions

This type of hair extension can only be done partially. This means that you cannot expect a full head of hair extensions with scalp braiding. This type of extension will last you only about 2 months. Some women find scalp braiding difficult to maintain and adjust to, so they can find themselves considering removing the braids a couple of weeks after. In short, this extension needs a little time to adjust to, so expect that at the start.

The advantage of these “sewn in” extensions are that they have almost zero damage on your natural hair. In order to apply the extensions, the natural hair is styled into a firm braid across the head and then the extensions are sewn into the braid. The only major drawback with scalp braiding is that it is not suitable for all hair types. In general, the extensions last longer on hair with a coarser texture than on smoother hair.

Expect to stay at least a couple of hours in the salon, but this time can vary depending on hair length. The cost for scalp braiding might be around $150-$200. The disadvantage of this hair extension is that the scalp can sometimes itch and tangle. On the other hand, you do not put any chemicals on your head, and this is a top reason for wanting this kind of extension.

With these 5 choices, bear in mind that the costs are multi-faceted. In other words, you have to consider the cost of the salon service, the hair extensions, and the maintenance or upkeep of your hair.

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.
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