Find a Stylist Who Knows About Tension

March 10, 2010 by Anastasia  
Filed under Hair Styles & Cuts

Your stylist should use the correct tension when cutting your hair. Some stylists pull all clients’ hair very taut or hold it very loosely while cutting. But one size doesn’t fit all. Adjusting the tension based on hair texture, for fine, coarse, straight or curly, is important to get a truly even cut. It is also important that you stylist uses the same tension all through your cut. If she doesn’t do this you will end up with an uneven cut that is choppy and looks bad.

The Beauticians
Image by joellybaby via Flickr

A basic haircut starts with your stylist dividing your hair into sections. Normally you will end up with a section above each ear, one on your crown and depending on the length and thickness of your hair you may end up with two or more sections in the back. Properly sectioning your hair allows your stylist to see and access all parts of your hair and ensures an even cut throughout.

Once your hair is sectioned out, your stylist will begin at the hairline on the nape of your neck. She may have you look down to be sure that you hair falls evenly over your collar. This cut is called the baseline cut. It determines the length of your hair and the basic shape of your cut. Once the baseline cut is done, she will start to take small sections of hair from the back working her way up your head until she reaches the crown.

If you are receiving a layer cut, your stylist will pull the sections of your hair out and hold them in a vertical position. The tension she uses will depend on your hair’s natural texture and wave pattern. Straight hair requires a greater tension than curly or wavy hair. Some stylists work their way from one side of your head to the other, while others start in the middle and work their way out. Either method requires your stylist to pick up a small bit of the section of the hair she just cut and keep the tension even to be sure that all sections end up the same length.

Once she is done with the back of your head, she will move on to either side of your head. Once again if she is giving your a layer cut, she will repeat the same method she used on the back of your head being sure to keep the tension even. Depending on the style you have chosen, she will shape your hair and blend it into the back. Now she will move to the crown and front hairline. This is where the tension of the cut is the most important. If the tension becomes too loose or too tight it will not blend properly.

Using the correct tension while cutting hair is important as you can see. Your stylist should have the skill and experience to do this correctly. Always go to a stylist who can cut a variety of hair types and textures. This will ensure that you will get the cut you want and leave feeling satisfied and happy with the way you look.

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.

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One Set of Shears Does Not Fit All

March 8, 2010 by Anastasia  
Filed under Hair Styles & Cuts

Your stylist should take care to select the correct shears or clippers (and also know which one to use) for your hair texture. One size does not fit all, and if your hair is coming out wrong, this could be why. Ideally, your stylist should have several sets of tools, and adjust based on the client’s hair textures. For example fine straight hair should never be cut with a razor while thick wavy hair will release its curl and body if cut correctly with a razor. An experienced stylist knows that using the correct tool to cut and shape your hair will bring out the natural movement and use this knowledge to create a hair cut that is a work of art.

Carmen hair clippers - 3
Image by davesag via Flickr

In cosmetology school your stylist learned how to use her shears and clippers. While some stylists have a natural talent, it does take practice and experience to learn to use the tools effectively. A talented stylist’s shears are an extension of her hand. She uses them to bring out your hair’s natural beauty by working with your hair’s growth patterns, thickness and texture. This is where knowing which tool to use is so important.

Using the incorrect pair of shears can leave you with an uneven cut and when your hair starts to grow out, these mistakes will become even more apparent. One of the hardest skills to learn is blending a clipper cut on men. Most men’s cuts start with the clippers and graduate to shears on the crown. This transition area around your head is very tricky to get even and blend. Unless your stylist is proficient with her clippers and has a steady hand, the result will be very undesirable. Selecting the correct set of guides for her clippers, your stylist can give you an even cut that will grow out and look good even weeks after she cuts it.

Look for a stylist who is experienced with cutting a wide variety of hair types. A talented stylist has a large arsenal of shears and clippers to choose from to meet all her client’s needs. You can’t cut everyone’s hair with one pair of shears and just like in clothing one size does not fit all, your stylist should be prepared to choose the right “fit” to ensure you get a balanced and even hairstyle that looks good when you leave the salon and for several weeks afterward.

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.

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Wavy Hair Hits The Red Carpet This 2010!

February 3, 2010 by Anastasia  
Filed under Hair Styles & Cuts

Short and sweet or long and breezy – wavy hair has no limits. You can enjoy the wave-styled hairdo at almost any length. For 2010, waves are going to make a bold fashion statement as you probably have seen in the magazines and celebrity shows.

Angelina Jolie has nice knees
Image by marcof via Flickr

The difference in the 2010 wavy look would be in use of color, highlights, and texture. Naturally, if you want to get the wavy hair, you need to get a professional cut. This is not something that can be done properly in a barber shop or at home. It is only after the stylist has cut your hair that you can go home and try different looks.

Two of the 2010 trends for wavy hair are the wavy shag and the wavy bob. The wavy shag is like a “just got out of bed look.” It’s messy but with a lot of control, and it’s movement but with a lot of style. To get this look, you must have medium to thick hair because the hair cut should have a lot of layering. On the other hand, if the layering is done wrong, and is not graduated, the end result would be too choppy. It will also encourage frizzy hair.

The wavy bob is a stylish fashion statement – just like what you would see on a lot of the movie stars today like Katie Holmes, who brought the bob back into vogue. The difference with the wavy bob is that you can have thin hair. Thick hair would be a strike out because it would be very difficult to control, and the tendency is for the hair to look wild.

Aside from the getting the 2010 wavy hair look, another bonus with this style would be the fact that wavy hair does not require much time and attention. The point would be to look as if you did not struggle for a couple of hours fixing your hair, or sitting in a salon for over an hour just to get the right wavy look. And even if you did, pulling off the wavy look means being nonchalant about your hair, thereby looking natural and fresh all the time.

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.

 Wavy Hair Hits The Red Carpet This 2010!
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2010’s Long Hair Styles To Watch Out For

February 1, 2010 by Anastasia  
Filed under Hair Styles & Cuts

With the Golden Globes Awards barely over, millions of avid fans had a clear view of what 2010’s hair styles to look forward to. Many of the celebrities came out all guns blazing wearing what that they thought was the best outfit ever made. However, no outfit could ever look great without the right hair styles.

Golden Globe Awards
Image by il_tommy via Flickr

What was seen on the red carpet is just an inkling of what hair styles for this year are all about. What was most obvious was the free flowing hair of most of the celebrities, and this sets the trend for 2010.

The byword for this year is versatility. This means being able to look fresh, fantastic, and new. If you have long, wavy hair, there is so much you can do – you could take a cue from Penelope Cruz and create some sexy waves on a layered hair style. Or you could go the other direction and have sleek, silky, long straight hair with stylish fringes to frame your face.

What most stylists recommend is having healthy, long hair that will allow you to change your look in the wink of an eye. If you plan to have a trim, add some waves or curls, layers and heavy conditioning. This will make it possible to carry the classic, elegant look and shift to a sexy, glamorous look the following night. This is what versatility means.

The sweeping fringes will still remain popular simply because it compliments all lengths of hair, as well as hair types.

Women who opted for a bob will probably choose to lengthen their hair because the bob will grow old. One of the main focuses for 2010 will be soft hair, and the bob tends to look too harsh on anyone but young Chinese girls.

In 2010, you can still expect the long shaggy hair to be around. By shaggy, the hair appears to be messy, without really being messy. This means not having the “just got out of bed” look, but the hair that has been put in a glam updo, but in a casual, sexy way. This means tiny fringes of curly hair barely framing the face, and making the entire look appear soft with just the right amount of texture. This kind of hair style for long hair, regardless of your hair type, is easy to do on your own with elastic bands, the right hair products, a comb, and your fingers to pull down some hair to serve as fringes. Above all, make sure to keep the hair looking and feeling soft, so don’t use any harsh hair products like starchy hair spray.

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.

 2010’s Long Hair Styles To Watch Out For
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Medium Hair Styles in 2010

January 23, 2010 by Anastasia  
Filed under Hair Styles & Cuts

Medium hair generally rests on the shoulders or a couple of inches below, and offers a variety of hair styles without changing the length. But you can also risk adopting a “mommy look” unless you make the effort to add texture and highlights or some additional style. Whether straight, wavy, or curly, medium length hair is the most adaptable length. But there are some styling errors you should avoid.

Charlize-Theron
Image by Peadar O’Sullivan via Flickr

First, avoid the blunt cut if you have thick, straight hair. You run the risk of having a Chinese baby doll look that has gone astray. This is because there is the tendency to look like you have too much hair and not enough face. Second, if you are going to try a curly look on straight hair, remember not to get it too tightly curled. This will shorten your hair too much, and give you the Little Bo Peep look that is not quite in style right now.

For 2010 medium length hair, consider adding some edge by styling your hair to flip outward. If you have never seen Manga – the Japanese comic characters, go check it out. This look is fabulous on the younger, yuppie crowd, but would also look great once in while for older women. You might call it a stylish shag that’s edgy and attractive. This look requires some amount of confidence to pull it off properly, so make sure you won’t be hiding it under a hat or scarf.

Layering is also a hot look 2010. With medium length hair, you have a fantastic opportunity to style your hair with drastic or conservative layers – whichever you like. You could also add some bangs which can either be slightly swept up or aside; or you could make them wispy, feather-like bangs that graze your forehead slightly. You could also try the flipped hair look which is actually great on any length. This hair trend is for the young and young-at-heart. It would look great with any outfit, day or night.

Sleek, silky hair is still an eye-catching look for 2010. However, you need to make sure your hair is conditioned and healthy to get a look that will make heads turn. One way to do this is have your hair re-bonded or have a cellophane treatment. This will make your hair silky smooth and soft to touch. At a minimum, you may need deep conditioning.

Once you have the style you are happy with, ask your stylist’s advice on different ways to dress your hair. Go in for a style and go on a few occasions, and let her create quick looks for you that are simple to do and will not take too much time. Do experiment with hair products like gel, mousse, hair setters or hair wavers. Just make sure that you don’t go overboard with cheap hair products from the store that could damage your hair. Consult your stylist, who has access to products, and information/education about them, that you won’t.

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.

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2010 Layered Hair Styles – Short, Long, Medium

January 22, 2010 by Anastasia  
Filed under Hair Styles & Cuts

If you want to start the new year with a trendy look, consider a layered hair style. The latest styles are layered, carefree, and fresh.

Ryan at the 2009 Tribeca Film Festival
Image via Wikipedia

A layered look creates movement and texture, with just the cut alone. You can often enjoy a wash and wear look that looks refreshingly vibrant and cool.

Your choice of layered hair styles will depend on your current hair length, hair thickness, face shape, and lifestyle. Some layered looks require more attention and time to manage properly.

Curly hair is much harder to layer than straight hair, because curls are harder to control. If you have straight, thick and course hair, layering might be your best option because you gain control over the stubborn fly-aways and avoid the “too much hair effect.” Your hair should compliment your facial features – don’t try to go the other way.

Some of your choices for the layered look are a short, textured layered look with fine wisps of hair barely touching your cheeks and forehead. You can even have baby bangs that are above the eyebrows, long enough to be swept upward for formal events. The latest short layered looks are the asymmetrical and textured styles. It’s similar to a boy’s cut but with an edge. Uneven lengths on short hair are best with thicker hair.

Layered medium length hair is versatile, young-looking, and generally fits all ages. If you taper the back and get some soft bangs, you could have a great frame for your face. If you want to focus on your eyes, make sure the bangs aren’t too long. If you want to draw attention to your lips, ask your stylist for some appropriate layering to softly touch your cheeks and chin.

Longer layered hair will need more time to maintain. A great way to layer long hair is by giving it a choppy look – minimal layering with blunt ends – think Meg Ryan. If that’s not your style, maybe the soft layering with curls or waves – it’s youthful, casually sexy, and trendy.

Whichever layered look you choose, it is important to remember that your hair texture and the health of your hair will determine the end result of your layered cut. As always, consult your stylist.

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.

 2010 Layered Hair Styles   Short, Long, Medium
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Raise the Roof with Root Boost

January 20, 2010 by Anastasia  
Filed under Hair Color & Treatments

Today’s hairstyles demand a lot from your hair. One of the hottest trends now is volume. Bigger hair is back baby! Runway and style shows are featuring hair that has height and fullness. Redkin artist Tracy Guthry takes height and sculpture to a new level in her Smoulder collection. Hair is transformed to a work of art with product application, back-brushing and hand molding. Faatemah Ampey creates movement and height in her new Fashion Forward collection. Hair of lifted and given height with an illusion of movement. While you might not be as adventurous as the models in these collections, root booster can give you as much height and volume as you dare to sport.

Big hair 80's model on white background, 1986
Image by | El Caganer via Flickr

Roost booster is a product that you spray onto the roots of your hair when it is wet or dry. It helps to give your hair volume right at the roots to transform flat and thin hair to beautifully full and thick. Bed Head by TIGI is a light fruity scented spray that gives lift and volume. TIGI’s Catwalk Root Boost was designed to deliver maximum design control. Like the name implies, you can get catwalk hair with this product. There are several brands of root boost on the market. Consult your stylist for one that works well with your hair.

One of the most popular styles today can benefit from a root booster. Long layered hair looks fabulous with a bit of lift at the crown. After you shampoo and condition your hair, lightly towel dry it to get out the excess moisture. Section off your hair starting at the front hairline and continue in small sections to just below your crown. Spray the booster on your hair’s roots. You don’t need much so don’t overdo. Use a large round brush and take small sections starting at your crown pulling your hair up at the roots. Direct the flow of air from your dryer onto the brush holding your hair up. Try to get most of the hot air onto your roots. Once your roots are almost dry, draw the brush up to your ends following it with the dryer. By concentrating the hot air flow to your roots first, this helps the root boost hold the height and lift you will obtain from this method.

Short and medium styles become works of art with root boost. Use the same method as before and concentrate the heat of your blow dryer on your roots first. When applied to dry hair root boost gives you the option to refresh your drooping locks. Use you fingers to style and you’ve got a killer look. Use root booster to give your style new life and you a new look.

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.

 Raise the Roof with Root Boost
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Highlights vs. Lowlights

January 17, 2010 by Anastasia  
Filed under Hair Color & Treatments

Highlights are meant to compliment your hairstyle, and face.  They can be any tone or shade you desire; they are lighter than you original hair color. Generally they are placed at the crown and around your face for optimum effect. The thicker the highlights (thick highlights are also known as chunky highlights), the less natural they look. The thinner the better. Want to mix them beautifully? Go for contrast, with highlights that are even, thin and natural looking.

hair highlights
Image by Torley via Flickr

For a general idea of shades to use, look at the following:

  • If you have dark hair, go no more than three shades lighter than your natural color.
  • If you have black hair, red highlights enhance the contrast and cut of your hairstyle; blonde or caramel highlights blend well, so they are the most popular highlights; purple highlights soften dark hair color and add subtlety, highlighting your bangs. Feeling quirky and fun, by trying multicolor highlights.
  • If you have brown hair, it has shades of red to go through first. If done incorrectly, it will turn brassy. Some shades of platinum blonde are fine on brown hair; do not use platinum blonde on dark brown hair, or it will turn your hair green.
  • For light brown hair, try a color two shades lighter than your original hair color; copper highlights look great; try copper and gold highlights for a gorgeous look.

Lowlights are meant to add definition and depth to your hairstyle. Adding lowlights the third time you get your hair highlighted, will blend your highlights with your natural color which looks fabulous and prevents salon trips every six weeks to cover dark roots. Tones of blended copper and gold are often the best lowlights to use. As always, consult your stylist.

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.

 Highlights vs. Lowlights
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Hair Glossing: Let Your Stylist Make You Shine

January 16, 2010 by Anastasia  
Filed under Hair Color & Treatments

You loved you color when you left the salon. Now it’s three weeks later and your hair is looking a bit worn out. Pollution, harsh shampoos, styling products and high heat appliances can make your hair look dull and lifeless. Summer sun can fade your color. In the winter, dry heat indoors can sap the moisture out of your hair and the cold outside can make it brittle. Even natural virgin hair can feel the effects of the environment, harsh chemicals, styling products and tools. Your stylist can give your hair a boost with hair glossing. Hair glossing is a simple and quick service that can bring your hair back to life and add sparkling shine

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Your hair is made up of layers. The inner most layer, the cortex, is where color molecules reside. The cuticle of your hair is its outermost layer and is made up of small overlapping scales. When your stylist applies hair color, chemicals in the hair color open up your hair’s cuticle and replace the natural color molecules in your hair with its own color molecules.

Hair color comes in four different strengths. Permanent hair color takes out and replaces almost all of your natural hair color. Permanent color stays in your hair until it is cut, although permanent color will fade in time. Semi-permanent color does not enter the cortex and affect your natural color molecules, but resides in the cuticle layer between hair’s natural scale structures. Demi-permanent color enters your hair’s cortex but does not replace as much of your natural color as permanent. Semi-permanent and demi-permanent colors are excellent choices for blending gray or if you want to enhance your natural color, but it will fade in about six weeks. Temporary hair color only covers the outer layer of your hair and will wash out with your first shampoo. If you have naturally dark hair or have had color applied before and you want to go lighter, your stylist will apply a bleach product to remove the color first. Then your stylist will either apply a semi, demi or permanent color to the pre-lightened hair to achieve the desired results.

Hair glossing not only gives your hair shine but helps to make it more manageable. When your hair becomes dull, what has happened is that your cuticle layer has opened slightly and is losing some of the color molecules that made your hair color rich and deep when you first received your color service. Hair gloss comes in clear or can have a slight tint to it to enhance your fading color. Glossing products can replace the missing color molecules in your hair and helps to smooth the cuticle layer. When your hair’s outer cuticle layer is smooth, your hair is shiny and looks healthy. By replacing the missing color molecules, your hair is once again vibrant and full of life.

A hair glossing service starts with your stylist evaluating your hair’s condition. Next the gloss is applied to dry hair and allowed to process. Your stylist then washes and conditions your hair and styles it. Then you’re good to go. A glossing service is quick and easy and can refresh and restore your hair’s shine and lusture

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.

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Perms Came a Long Way, Baby!

January 15, 2010 by Anastasia  
Filed under Hair Styles & Cuts

Women have come a long way from the late 1800’s, when they began wearing perms. Back then, Marcel Grateau specially designed tongs heated by gas or alcohol flame to create a wavy look.  Ironically, the method used back then is still in existence today – just greatly modified.

Hair wound ready for permanent-waving, with (o...
Image via Wikipedia

With Mr. Grateau’s design,  the person perming their hair would comb the hair towards the operator, slowly moving the comb with the hand to keep tension while applying the tongs to the hair pulling down the lock to the point. The tongs produced a two dimensional wave. The process of using high temperature degraded the hair. By 1905, Charles Nessler, devised an alternate method using cow urine and water. This method was called the spiral heat method and was designed for long hair. By 1909, Mr. Nessler’s machine was used in London to produce waves on ladies’ long tresses. By 1917, Isidoro Calvete design the first permanent-wave heater. It resembled something from outer space (think colander with wires coming out of the top of the colander). In 1924, Josef Mayer designed a curler that made the ends of the curls pointy. In 1930, J. Bari-Woollss designed a reduction method. A heatless system was introduced a the Midwest Beauty Show in 1931, this system was used frequently in salons, where it was left on the client overnight and removed the next day. It was called the overnight wave. Both Mr. Mayer and Mr. Bari-Woollss designs were modified over time and this modified unit is used in salons today.

As technology and chemicals developed, the perming process improved dramatically to include the cold wave in 1938 using rods and reduction lotion and acid perms in 1970. Additional modern perms were introduced throughout the 1970’s – exothermic, digital perms, and permanent relaxer that straightens the hair.

Because of these inventions and improved technology and chemicals, today’s women may safely perm their hair.

  • Acid perms create conditioned, flexible curls; they are best for fine, sensitive, fragile, damaged, or tinted hair.
  • Alkaline perms create strong, firm curls; they are best for normal and resistant hair.
  • Exothermic perms create bouncy, strong curls.
  • Body perms are soft, loose perms that create volume with a little wave vs. curls.
  • Root perms lift and add volume the root area; they are best for short hair.
  • Pain curl perms create soft, natural waves, and curls.
  • Stack perms create curl and volume to one-length cuts; they are used on the middle and ends.
  • Spiral perms create spiral curls. Hair is rolled vertically vs. horizontally.
  • Spot perms support the area they are applied to; they are best used where a little lift is needed such as the crown, fringe, or side around face.
  • Weave perms curl sections of the hair and leave the rest straight; they are best for bangs, and the face.
Regardless of the type of perm that’s right for your hair, you don’t have to know a lot about perms, or how they came about, to walk out with a great look. Consulting your stylist is important. They should be the kind of professional that’s willing to listen, advise you and make recommendations. If you get the sense that they only have one option in their repertoire, get a second opinion. As with your health, your hair needs the services of a pro.

Anastasia is a salon hair stylist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Out of town appointments welcome.

 Perms Came a Long Way, Baby!
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